ALPS 2010

Note: All tours except Finsteraarhorn in solo climb without rope.

This is a personal philosophy which developed over decades now and should not be a general example.

For accidents caused by imitation no responsibility can be assumed.

Gimpel (2173m)

Austria-Tannheimer Alps, 23.5.10

Day tour from Nesselwängle, easy climb (grade I), additional visit of Rote Flüh (2108m).

Gimpel seen from Kellenspitze ascent (return due to steep snow)

Gimpel summit

Gimpel and Kellenspitze seen from Rote Flüh

Mindelheimer Klettersteig (2320m)

Austria-Allgäuer Alps, 26.6.10

Day tour from Mittelberg, fixed rope route, easy climb grade C.

Route crosses the Schafalpenköpfe-N (2320m), mittl. (2301m), S (2272m) and Kemptner Kopf (2191m)

first steps...

Mittlerer Schafalpenkopf, the next summit to cross on the route

flowering alpine vegetation

Kemptner Kopf summit

Vd. Grubenwand (3165m)

Austria-Tirol-Stubai, 27.6.10

Day tour from Lisens, easy climb via NE-ridge (grade I+), easier than it looks.

Additional visit of Schöntalspitze (3008m).

view to Lisenser Fernerkogel

Schöntalspitze summit

view from Grubenwand NE-ridge to Schöntalspitze

view to Grubenwand SW peak

Winnebacher Weißkogel (3185m)

Austria-Tirol-Stubai, 1.7.10

Day tour from Gries, 3,5h ascent, easy climb (grade 1).

first sunlight

view to Gleir. Fernerkogel

summit view

alpine roses

Gsallkopf (3278m)

Austria-Tirol, Ötztaler Alps, 3.7.10

Day tour from Arzeler Alm road, 4,5h ascent via N-ridge, easy climb (grade II), summit rock very exposed with weak snow.

view from Tiefental to Rofelewand and Gsallkopf

view to summit from N

view to Dristkogel in northern direction

summit with Rofelewand behind

panoramic view from summit to S

view back to Dristkogel

alpine roses with Rofelewand behind

beautiful Tiefental

Hochalmspitze (3360m) - Ankogel (3250m)

Austria-Kärnten, 8.-9.8.10

2 day tour from Mallnitz:

1. th day: Hochalmspitze with crossig of Säuleck (3086m), Gussenbauersp. (2939m), Schneewinkelsp. (3015m) and Großelendkopf (3319m), then down via Stein. Mannln and Lass. Winkelscharte to Celler hut.

Easy, but steep climb via Detmolder Grat, (grade II) with sometimes weak snow with crevasses.

2. th day: Ankogel via SW ridge, easy climb

Dösner lake below

Hochalmspitze seen from Säuleck summit

Hochalmspitze summit

Hochalmspitze summit seen from Großelendkopf

Großelendkopf summit

famous Steinerne Mannln

Hochalmspitze in evening light seen from Celler hut

Säuleck in morning dawn

Hochalmspitze seen from Ankogel ascent

flowering saxifrage

Ankogel summit

N-view from Ankogel summit

Habicht (3277m)

Austria-Tirol, Stubai, 14.7.10

Day tour from Gschnitz, with side trip to Kalkwand (2564m), easy climbs, Kalkwand slightly exposed.

Pflerscher Tribulaun


view to Tribulaun range

S-view from summit

summit ridge

Habicht summit

Kalkwand summit with Habicht behind

S-view below Kalkwand

Dristkogel (3059m)

Austria-Tirol, Ötztaler Alps, 16.7.10

Day tour from Kaltenbrunn, 3,5h ascent via Gallrutt, easy but exposed climb (grade II).

view to Rofelewand

Gsallkopf view

summit panorama to S

Dristkogel summit

the easiest climbing route would be very hard to find, but a weak trail helps

high mountain plants

small glacier lake

wet forest in the valley

Hoher Eichham (3371m)

Austria-Tirol, Venedigergruppe, 21.7.10

Day tour from Virgen, ascent via Sailkopf (3209m), side trips to Kuhhaut (3190m) and Nied. Eichham (3249m).

Easy, but shortly exposed climb (grade II).

E-view from Sailkopf ascent

H. Eichham with Nilkees seen from Sailkopf

summit ridge

summit with view to Großvenediger

panoramic view from Kuhhaut to W

view to Gr. Geiger

H. Eichham seen from Nied. Eichham summit

alpine vegetation

Finsteraarhorn (4273m)

Switzerland, highest mountain of Berner Alps, 30.7.-1.8.10

3 day tour from Fiesch, easy but exposed climb (grade II), partly delicate due to fresh snow. day: 10h ascent via Aletschgletscher and Grünhornlücke to Finsteraarhorn-Hut. day: climbing Finsteraarhorn via NW ridge and back to Hut. day: 9h back to Fiesch via Aletschgletscher

Aletschgletscher glacier table

Konkordiaplatz view to W

first view to Finteraarhorn from Grünhornlücke

early morning view with earths shadow behind Grünhornlücke

Aletschhorn seen from SW ascent

E-view with Unteraargletscher below seen from Hugisattel

SW-view from Hugisattel with Matterhorn and Weisshorn behind

climbers ascending the NW ridge

NE-view from summit to Schreckhorn

Thorsten at the summit

view to Aletschhorn

view to Grünhorn

early morning view to Grünhorn from Hut

early morning view to Wannenhorn

view back to Finsteraarhorn from Grünhornlücke


Feuersteine (3268m)

Italy, Stubaier Alps, 9.8.10

Day tour, 5,3h ascent from Maiern/Ridnaun via Aggl-Spitze (3196m) and W-summit (3245m), S-ridge easy climb, but delicate due to abundant fresh snow (grade I-II).

morning view through fog to Sonklarspitze

frozen lake

view to S-ridge and W-summit

view to W(main)-summit

Parseierspitze (3036m)

Austria-Tirol, highest mountain of Lechtaler Alps, 14.8.10

Day tour, 3,5h ascent from Grins via Gasillschlucht and SE-flank, descent via Gatschkopf (2947m), easy climb (grade I-II), rockfall risk.

early morning view to Wazespitze above fog layer

view to S with dense fog below while ascending Gasillschlucht

side flanks of Gasillschlucht showing strongly folded layering

Parseierspitze summit

view to NW with Feuerspitze

SW view to Hoher Riffler

view back to Parseierspitze from Gatschkopf summit

W-view to Simeleskopf

Schwarzenstein (3368m) - Löffler (3376)

Italy-Zillertaler Alps, 11.-12.9.10

2 day tour with high mountain biwak from St. Johann, Ahrntal: day: Schwarzenstein via Tribbachschneide, then Floitenspitze W (3194m), easy climb, later tent-night below Tribbachkees. day: Grosser Löffler via Tribbachspitze (3271m), easy climb (grade I), but very snowy.

Schwarzenstein summit

W-view with Hochfeiler range

summit with E-view to Löffler behind

Floitenspitze summit

NW-view to G. Mörchner

sunset view to south

sunrise view to south with Tofane range-Dolomites

sunrise view to SW

view back to Schwarzenstein

first view to N from the Tribbach-saddle

Gr. Löffler summit

NE-view to Reichenspitz-range

W-view to Hochfeiler range

my tent below Tribbach-glacier


Hoher Riffler (3168m)

Austria -Tirol - highest mountain of Verwallgruppe, 19.9.10

Day tour, 3,5h ascent from Pettneu, easy walk, very summit and Bankahorn easy climb (grade II), additional climbing of Blankahorn (3129m) and Kl. Riffler (3014m).

Comment: beginning of my personal project: all 11 Verwallgruppe-summits higher than 3000m as ropeless solo climbs in less than 1 month.

morning view to Kuchenspitze range

nearby Blankahorn

Riffler summit, separated by a steep crevice

view to Wildspitze


SE-view panorama from pre-summit

east view from main summit with Flirscher Ferner below

view back to H. Riffler (left) and Blankahorn (right) from Kl. Riffler

Marmolada (3343m)

Italy - Trentino - highest mountain of the Dolomites, 21.-22.9.10

2 day tour with summit night from Canazei, Alba. day: climbing Marmolada via Contrin and W-ridge fia ferrata, very exposed and widely iced climb with crampons, night at summit Hut.

Additional climb of Piccolo Vernel (3098m). day: descent and crossing of Cima Ombretta (3011m), additonal climbing of Sasso Vernale (3058m) and back to Canazei, easy but exposed climb with ball-bearing effects due to gravel on top of gripless rock.

first sunlight on the Langkofel-range

Langkofel range behind

Piccolo Vernell with Grand Vernel behind

Marmolada view from Pic. Vernell summit, W-ridge in the middle of the image

W-ridge fixed rope route

view back to Vernell group

lower Punta di Rocca W-summit

N-view to Langkofel and Sella range

starting Paraglider with Langkofel range behind

Aureole above W-summit

Punta di Penia main summit

Fanes plateau in evening light

Tofanes in evening light

Sorapiss group in evening light

Mt. Pelmo to the east

Antelao, Pelmo and Sorapiss with earths shadow at sunset

full moon night, S-view with Orion constellation

full moon night, N-view with Lyra constellation

sunrise behind Antelao

Cima Ombretta in first sunrays

Pala group in first sunlight

Grossglockner to the NE

mountain shadow points to the Ortlergroup, Rosengarten range to the right

Vernel peaks in first light

Fanes plateau

Langkofel summit

Sun above Mt. Pelmo

S-view to the next summits to climb, Ombretta and Vernale

famous Marmolada S-wall

Cima Ombretta summit

famous Marmolada S-wall seen from Cima Ombretta

view to Sasso Vernale, my last peak to climb on this route

bypassing the Langkofel group while driving home

Gr. Moosstock (3059m)

Italy - Raintal - Durreckgruppe, 30.09.10

Day tour from Ahornach, easy climb but very snowy.

at the summit

Hochgall to the south

view south to the Dolomites


Hundstal-Kogel (3073m)

Austria - Ötztaler Alps, 3.10.10

Day tour, 4,5h ascent from Trenkwald/Pitztal via S-ridge, easy and slightly exposed climb (grade I-II), strenuous due to abundant snow.

first sunlight

first view of the climbing route

view back to the Kaunergrat range

famous Rofelewand to the west

S-view to Wildspitze

S-view panorama with already climbed S-ridge

view down to Moalandl-lake

view to Wazespitze

Seespitzen (3061m) - Saumspitz (3039m)

Austria -Tirol - Verwallgruppe, 7.10.10

Day tour, 3h ascent from Ischgl, easy climb to S-Seespitze (3053m), N-Seespitze (3061m) very exposed and steep (grade II-III), later traversing N-flank and crossing of Saumspitze via S-ridge. Down via Vergrößlake.

Comment: continuance of project: all 11 Verwallgruppe-summits higher than 3000m as ropeless solo climbs in less than 1 month.

Küchlspitze in first sunlight

beautiful Madlein-lake

panoramic view of Madlein-lake

view to both Seespitzen summits

Kuchenspitze range seen from Saumspitz ascent

view back to Seespitze

Saumspitze summit

NE-view to Hoher Riffler


Seespitzen above Vergröß-lakes

main Vergröß-lake


Patteriol (3056m) - Küchlspitze (3147m) - Kuchenspitze (3148m)

Austria -Tirol - Verwallgruppe, 9.-10.10.10

2 day tour from St. Anton with high mountain biwak, day: 4h ascent via Fasultal and S-flank, crossing of Patteriol mid-summit (3030m) and additional climb of Patteriol Horn (3003m), easy climb (grade I) but N-flank of mid-summit strennuous and dangerous due to exposure and abundant loose snow. Later down into Fasultal and ascent to the Küchlferner-lake, tent night in absolute stunning landscape. day: night ascent to Küchlspitze SW-flank, long, partly exposed and steep climb (grade II), unmarked, therefore hard to find and dangerous if taking wrong route. Later down the same way, traversing directly to Kl. Kuchenferner, following this glacier to the base of the Kuchenspitze SW-wall. Climbing straight up through channels. Unmarked, hard and complex to find especially in the upper part, many options possible, due to snow remnants and water channel bases not climbable, therefore long, steep and partly very exposed climb (grade II-III).

Comment: completion of project: all 11 Verwallgruppe-summits higher than 3000m as ropeless solo climbs in less than 1 month.

Patteriol main summit

panoramic view back to Patteriol (left) and Kuchenspitze range (right)

beautiful Küchlferner-lake

campsite near lake

last sunlight

Patteriol in first sunlight, seen from Küchlspitze ascent


Patteriol Horn

Küchlspitze summit

E-view to recently climbed Seespitzen

SE-view to Weisskugel

N-view to the now following climb, Kuchenspitze above G. Küchlferner

Patteriol with Küchlferner-lake below

some Ibex on the way to Kuchenspitze glacier

view to Patteriol from Kl. Kuchenferner ascent

Kl. Kuchenferner with SW-wall above

view on top of Kl. Kuchenferner

Kuchenspitze summit

view back to recently climbed Küchlspitze

panoramic view from summit, showing the whole Kuchenspitze range with Patteriol behind

Küchlferner lake-Patteriol mirroring

colors of Fall with Patteriol behind


Ettaler Mannl (1633m)

Germany - Ammergauer Alps 22.10.10

ascent from Ettal, crossing of Laber (1685m), easy climb with fixed rope route, but very strenuous due to abundant snow without traces

Ettaler Manndl summit

untouched snow on the way to Laber

Kreuzjoch (2558m)

Austria - Tirol - Kitzbüheler Alps 30.10.10

ascent from Gerlos, crossing of Isskogel (2263m) and Gamsköpfl (2476m) easy walk but very strenuous due to abundant snow without traces

Isskogel ascent

view to Reichenspitze range

Gamsköpfl summit

colors of Fall